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Les 7 bonnes pratiques dans la création d’une Eau de parfum en Private Label

EDP ref713 50ml with ref1000 gold cap(1)

7 Best Practices for Creating a Private Label Eau de Parfum

Developing a private label Eau de Parfum involves more than just choosing the fragrance itself. Behind every successful launch lies a precise methodology and seamless coordination between creation, regulatory compliance, production, and marketing.

Whether you are a new brand, a concept store, a hotel, a spa, or a retailer, this article outlines the key steps, technical constraints, and timelines involved in turning your idea into a market-ready product.

1. Define a clear and distinctive concept

Before fragrance development even begins, it is essential to define your brand positioning and identity.

Your Eau de Parfum needs to tell a story; here are a few questions to help guide you:
– Who is your product for? Who is your target audience?
– Do you want a premium, niche, lifestyle, or minimalist identity?
– What is your desired design (bottle type, volume, packaging, etc.)?
– What will your distribution channels be?

Develop your fragrance brief in alignment with the concept. The more precise the brief, the more likely the perfumer is to propose a creation that truly reflects your identity:
– What emotion do you want to convey?
– What is the olfactory family of the perfume ?
The 7 major olfactory families of fine perfumery : 
• The woody
• The amber
• The leathers 
• The chypre
• The ferns 
• The citrus
• The floral
– What are the desired dominant notes?
Top notes: the most volatile (citrus, hesperidic)
Heart notes: those that define the identity and generally last longer (florals, spices, aromatic herbs)
Base notes: the most long-lasting (woody, amber)
– What fragrance concentration are you aiming for? 
Eau de Cologne: 2–5%
Eau de Toilette: 5–15%
Eau de Parfum: 15–25%
Extrait de Parfum: 25–40%
– Your target audience (the target guides the fragrance family: fresh and marine notes for a sporty scent, floral and fruity to evoke femininity, gourmand for a youthful appeal, spicy notes for added character, etc.)
– Your brand identity (a mood board helps the perfumer visualize your image)
– Olfactory inspirations and market references (to translate words into scents)

An incomplete brief can lead to multiple rounds of revisions with the perfumer, extending the development timeline.
All our fragrances are created by perfumers from Grasse, the world capital of perfumery.

💡 TIP :
Feel free to provide a detailed fragrance brief so the perfumer can translate your expectations into a scent. A fragrance brief is more than just a list of ingredients; it should serve as a source of inspiration and guide the perfumer. Experts are there to translate the client’s ideas using the specific vocabulary of the fragrance industry.
If you have any doubts, do not hesitate to seek outside opinions.

2. Identify your markets and anticipate regulations

A project entails different constraints depending on the region where it will be sold.

At Bougie et Senteur, we always ensure compliance with the European Cosmetics Regulation (EC 1223/2009). If you wish to distribute your product in other geographic regions, it is crucial to specify this from the outset to ensure compliance. To market products in Europe, several elements are mandatory:
• IFRA compliance
• Product Information File (PIF) — Parts A and B
• Stability tests (3 months):  During the stability test, one bottle is placed in an oven at 42°C to simulate aging (1 month in the oven is equivalent to 7 months at ambient temperature). Another is kept at ambient temperature. This process assesses whether the fragrance remains stable or oxidizes, in terms of both scent and appearance (color change).
• Regulatory labeling in the language(s) of the countries where the product is distributed
• Mandatory pictogram: the flame symbol is required for EDP because they contain alcohol, which is flammable
• PAO (Period After Opening): 12 or 24 months; this may vary depending on stability test results
• List of allergens
• CPNP notification (client’s responsibility)
• Traceability and batch number
• Good Manufacturing Practices (GMP)

Cosmetic regulations are often underestimated, which is why we handle this entire aspect to simplify the process for you.

EDP ref716 100ml with ref1005 gold large cap
EDP ref503 100ml with ref1107 matte black large cap and pump open

3. Establishing a realistic budget

The budget for a perfume project depends on numerous factors:
– Fragrance creation and concentration
– Rarity of the raw materials in the concentrate
– The bottle and its decoration (lacquering, screen printing, label, pump, pump collar, cap, etc.)
– Outer packaging and printing specifications (hot stamping, lamination, varnish, paper type, etc.)
– Regulatory tests (stability and skin testing)
– Production and delivery

A standard bottle with simple customization will not incur the same costs as a bespoke development. Setting a realistic budget from the start helps guide technical and creative choices effectively.

💡TIPS : 
To optimize costs, we recommend:
• Choosing one of our existing scents: Reduces regulatory costs by 50%
• Opting for the same lacquer finish for all product variants, and differentiating them through customization (different caps, screen printing, or labels)
• Printing the labels and boxes for different variants at the same time
This allows for economies of scale!

4. Plan a precise timeline

Creating an Eau de Parfum takes time: it is one of the perfumed products with the longest development cycles, particularly due to mandatory testing phases.

Steps to include in your project schedule:
1. Preparing and sending the fragrance brief
2. Developing proposals from the perfumer
3. Selecting primary and secondary packaging
4. Sampling and validation phase
5. Stability testing (conducted in-house at Bougie et Senteur; 3-month duration) and skin testing (1-month duration)
6. Sourcing and printing (bottles, caps, packaging, etc.)
7. Maceration of the fragrance in alcohol (2 to 3 weeks) to ensure finished product quality
8. Filling, packaging and delivery

💡TIP:
A project involving a bespoke fragrance can take up to 12 months, depending on the level of customization and the number of iterations. For faster projects, our White Label offer features 23 pre-selected fragrances that have already passed stability tests, reducing the development time to 4 months.

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5. Choose the bottle, decoration, and packaging

Packaging plays a decisive role in how the product is perceived. The choice of bottle and its accessories (pump, pump collar, cap) must take into account aesthetics, industrial feasibility, and compatibility with filling lines.
In niche perfumery, brands often use so-called “standard” bottles. They then differentiate themselves through decoration, the cap, and so on.

Available customization techniques:
– Screen printing and hot stamping
– Lacquering
– Printed label (with or without digital gold foil, choice of paper, varnish, etc.)
– Printed individual packaging

💡TIP:
An Eau de Parfum project involves many stakeholders : bottle supplier, decorators, perfumer, printer, and manufacturer. It is essential to anticipate the MOQs (Minimum Order Quantities) and lead times for each one. To simplify the process, Bougie et Senteur offers a turnkey solution: we act as your single point of contact and manage relationships with all intermediaries.

6. Plan logistics in advance

Logistics are often addressed late in the process, even though they directly impact costs, lead times, and stock availability.

Points to anticipate:
– Storage
– Transport of dangerous goods due to alcohol content (specific labeling for cartons and pallets)
– Preferred transport method: road, sea, or air
– Required documentation and labeling

At Bougie et Senteur, all shipments are made to a single address on Euro pallets to ensure optimal product protection throughout transit.

7. Implement an effective launch strategy

A successful launch relies as much on the brand experience as on the quality of the product itself.
Before going to market, prepare:
– Storytelling and social media strategy (selling perfume exclusively online presents a challenge)
– Sales materials and sales staff training: ensuring the sales team can discuss top, middle, and base notes, and describe the fragrance and its key notes.
– Samples, testers, and discovery sets

Comprehensive Checklist: Key Steps for a Private Label Eau de Parfum Project

Phase 1: Project Definition
☐ Define the brand concept and price positioning
☐ Identify distribution markets
☐ Define estimated volumes and establish the overall budget

Phase 2: Fragrance Development
☐ Draft the fragrance brief and define olfactory families
☐ Select reference scents for inspiration
☐ Test the fragrance (on blotters, skin, and with a test panel)
☐ Approve the final fragrance

Phase 3: Packaging Development
☐ Select the bottle, pump, pump collar, and cap
☐ Define the product design and approve the artwork/decor (proof)
☐ Develop the carton design and approve the proof

Phase 4: Regulatory and Quality
Ensure the manufacturer has:
☐ Verified IFRA compliance and allergen content
☐ Conducted stability testing
☐ Prepared the Product Information File (PIF)
☐ Labeled the product in accordance with regulations (required information for bottle and carton)
☐ Adhered to Good Manufacturing Practices (GMP)

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What is an olfactory pyramid?

Photo Blog Pyramid

Top notes,
Heart notes,
Base botes.

Become a perfume expert

What is an olfactory pyramid?

Perfume is an art that appeals to our senses, our emotions and our imagination. But behind the magic of a fragrance, there is also a science, that of olfactory composition. To create a perfume, perfumers use an essential tool: the olfactory pyramid. What is this ? How is it built? What is his role ? We explain everything to you in this article.

What is an olfactory pyramid?

An olfactory pyramid is a schematic representation of the composition of a perfume, which is divided into three levels: top notes, heart notes and base notes.
Each level corresponds to a group of raw materials which have common olfactory characteristics, and which are revealed at different times during the evaporation of the perfume.

pyramide olfactive
Olfactory pyramid

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What is the objective of an olfactory pyramid?

The olfactory pyramid has several roles in the perception of a perfume. It permits :

  • To describe and classify perfumes according to their olfactory families. There are several possible classifications, but the most common distinguishes the flowery, oriental, woody, citrus, chypre-fern and aromatic families. There are also nuances linking families together. For example, we are talking about oriental woody.
  • To understand and predict the evolution of a perfume on the skin and in the air. Indeed, a perfume is not static, it changes over time and depending on external conditions. The olfactory pyramid allows you to know which notes will dominate at each stage of the diffusion of the perfume.
  • To choose and appreciate a perfume according to your tastes and desires. Indeed, each person has their own olfactory preferences, which depend on their history, personality, culture and mood. The olfactory pyramid allows you to guide yourself towards the perfumes that best correspond to your profile and your state of mind.

The olfactory pyramid is therefore a useful tool for perfumers, but also for perfume lovers. It reveals the complexity and richness of a fragrance, and invites you to discover it in all its aspects. It is also a means of expression and communication, which allows you to share your emotions and olfactory sensations.

How to properly use an olfactory pyramid?

An olfactory pyramid is a useful tool for choosing a perfume that suits your tastes and needs. This tool must, however, be used with discernment to reveal all its subtlety. The olfactory pyramid is above all present to define a feeling, but the feeling can be variable.
Olfactory perception can differ from one person to another, like color perception. The olfactory pyramid must therefore be seen as a useful and reliable guide but not as an absolute and universal truth.
Depending on the scented product,  the scent may manifest itself in a slightly different way. For example, on a reed diffuser, the base notes are more discreet. Capillary action involves continuous diffusion, the base notes are therefore less perceptible and the top notes more present than with a spray or eau de toilette.
The duration of perception of the notes can also vary depending on the concentration of perfume applied.

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